The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are alltriglycerides. It Immediately Minimizes and soothes damaged skin with its pharmaceutical grade vitamin C. This Day Serum rejuvenates even the dullest, tired skin. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or less. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). According to manufacturer info coupled with the Mexican cactus, prickly pearit also helps to reduce neurosensory irritation that might occur from potent retinol or AHA products. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. Voor de beste gebruikerservaring, zorg ervoor dat javascript ingeschakeld is voor uw browser. An easy-to-formulate, commonly used, nice to have ingredient thats also called pro-vitamin B5. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. The salt form of one of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients in the licorice plant, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate. So the face of one platelet attracts the edge of the other and this builds a so-called "house of card" structuremeaning thatMagnesium Aluminum Silicate (MAS)thickens up products and helps to suspend non-solubleparticles such as color pigments or inorganic sunscreens (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide). Moreover, derivativesnot only have to be absorbed into the skin, they also have to be converted into pure AA. It is also often used to create liposomes, small spheres surrounded by phospholipid bi-layer designed to carry some active ingredient and helpits absorption. Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action:on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles thendiffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple. This one is the so-called esterified version. It has proven antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anticarcinogenic properties. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". Good old water, aka H2O. Its a humectant meaning that it can help the skin to attract water and then hold onto it. Of course, it cannot make a miracle but it might have some effect via regulating microcirculation and normalizing the metabolism in the cells of connective tissues. A study shows that it can reduce the irritation caused by less-nice other ingredients (e.g. Super common little helper ingredient thathelps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. We have better news about the other two things: in-vitro data shows that MAP can boost collagen synthesis similar to AA (though in thecase of AA it's proven in-vivo) and even better, MAP is proven to work as a skin brightener in-vivo (on real people). Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). It was created in a joint effort by the Frenchingredient supplier, Sedermaand the cosmetics industry big shot, Procter&Gamble. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years. An error has occurred. What is not so good is that, as the great review study about vitamin C derivatives in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology writes, MAP is "at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison to AA.". Currently, algae extracts are mostly used asmoisturizing andthickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well asworking as an antimicrobial. Its used mainly for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, but according to manufacturer info, its also sebum regulating so it'. That is probably no coincidence. Even if it can beconverted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. Geur: Eenzoetige geur die vergelijkbaar is met een sinaasappelsgeur. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid calledstearic acid. Pro-Vitamin B5 is a goodie that moisturises the skin, has anti-inflammatory, skin protecting and wound healing properties. Its official functions include being a humectant (helps skin to attract water), emollient (makes skin feel smooth and nice) and skin conditioner(a catchall phrase for saying it does something good for the skin). In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, withoutbeing heavy or greasy. A type of clay mineralthatworks as a nice helper ingredient to thickenand stabilize formulas. Overall, linoleic acid is a multi-functional skin goodiewith barrier repairing, acne-reducing, and skin-lightening magic abilities. One of the biological activities of thecentellosides isto be able to stimulate GAGs (glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells), and especially hyaluronic acid synthesis in our skin. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. Het VITAL C - Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum is wereldwijd het bestverkochte IMAGE Skincare serum! The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able toboost collagen production. Voor een volledige routine gebruik je daarna je dag- of, 2020 Gabson B.V. | Professional Skin Solutions, Alle huidtypen (vooral geschikt voor rosacea en roodheden), Stimuleert de aanmaak van collageen en celvernieuwing, Bevat antioxidanten voor een gezonde glow, Vitamine C mix (sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid), Hyaluronzuur - Houdt tot 1000x zijn eigen gewicht in water vast, Neuropeptide - ontspant de gezichtsspieren. We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers sayabout their algae. It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. Its a yellowish powder with a nice sweet smell. LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). In general, the darker the fruit, the more GSPs and other flavonoids it contains. (Btw, if you do not know whatthe big deal with vitamin C is then you are missing out. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but awax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides:one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. Another great thing about panthenol is that it has anti-inflammatory and skin protecting abilities. This is probably one of the reasons why Centella Asiatica Extract has nice skin moisturizingproperties that was confirmed by a 25 people, four weeks study along with Centella's anti-inflammatory effects. It's readily biodegradable. Bottom line, if you are into peptides, this is a good one to try. Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits, but it seems to fall short on several things. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are"emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". Maar ook de vettige (acne)huid is een goede match met dit serum. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Osmoprotective compounds are interesting, skincare-wise, as they are thought to be able to increase intracellular osmosis, meaning water is drawn into the skin cells. Voor de beste gebruikerservaring, zorg ervoor dat javascript ingeschakeld is voor uw browser. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly".

A double-blind study using a 2.5% LA gel for 4 weeks found a 25% reduction in the size ofmicrocomedones,the tiny blocked pores that can later lead to acne. The point of both drying methods is to make waterevaporate from the juice and leave just the "useful" components behind. As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturallyin our skin. A spray-dried or freeze-dried version of Aloe Leaf Juice. Ideaal voor de (zeer) droge, gevoelige huid, de huid met roodheden en rosacea.

So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway?

We especially recommend it if you are after skin brightening as this seems to be thestrongest point of MAP. Centella Asiatica also often shows up in products that try to treat cellulite or striae. Centella Asiatica - or gotu kola as normal people call it - has been used in folk medicine for hundreds of years. Zo geeft het de huid een ware hydratatieboost, zit het bomvol antioxidanten waardoor de huid egaler wordt en een gezonde glow krijgt. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Nice to spot on any ingredient list. In general, the main component of citrus peel oils is limonene (77-86% for mandarin peel), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). Orange mandarin peel contains less from it than some other citruses (likebergamotor lime), but still, be carefulwith it especially if it's in a product for daytime use. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. Panthenol might make your hair softer, more elastic and helps to comb your hair more easily. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you likethe tried and true, pure vitamin Cwill be your best bet). It's a natural moisturizing factorand might also help to speed up wound healing. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. The famousomega-6 fatty acid,the mother of all-6 fatty acids in ourbody. We have to admit thatAlgae Extract is not our favorite ingredient name. Biopeptide El - A six amino acid peptide that is claimed to improve firmness (by 33% in one month) and skin tone (by 20%). The salt form of one of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients in the licorice plant, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate. As the "house of card" structure takes some time to form but collapses quickly if the formula is stirred, products thickened with MAS can be thick in the jar but become easily spreadable upon application (called thixotropy). If you are more of a "let's treat this aging thing properly" type, then it's probably not your thing. We wholeheartedly support the rise of seedless grapes as fruit snacks, but when it comes to skincare, we are big fans of the seeds. It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. A type of clay mineralthatworks as a nice helper ingredient to thickenand stabilize formulas. There is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae worldwide) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effects. Its hydrating ability is due to the chemical composition of therhizomes thatcontain natural osmoprotective compounds such as3-dimethylsulfoniopropionate (DMSP), potassium, starches, and sugars. According to the efficacydata from the manufacturer, 2% ofABS Imperata Cylindrica Extract (the trade name of the diluted version of the root extract)is able to increase the level of skin moisturization by almost 45%, which is 88% more effective than the untreated control. It's alsoparticularly good at treating dry brittle nails (source). Green Tea - one of the most researched natural ingredients that contains the superstar actives called catechins. There is, for example,an algae extract trade-named Lanablue that comes fromblue-green algae (green algae is rare, less than 1% of the total macroalgae in the world) and is claimed to have retinoid like effects(i.e. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Though most research is manufacturer sponsored, the clinical studies aboutPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 are promising.

(We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, eating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, Read all the geeky details about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract here >>, take a look at more promising derivatives here, Read all the geeky details about Ascorbic Acid here >>, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, You can read all about the pure form here, simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair, another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae, Green tea is one of the most researched natural ingredients, The active parts are called polyphenols, or more precisely catechins (EGCG being the most abundant and most active catechin), There can be huge quality differences between green tea extracts. Gebruik in Your Daily Skin Routine: Zowel s ochtends als s avonds te gebruiken, als tweede stap in je skincareroutine. A study shows that a nail treatment liquide with 2% panthenol could effectively get into the nail and significantly increase the hydration of it. Not really that good. It isexcellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, likeseborrhea or fungal acne. The amino acid sequence of the peptideislysinethreoninethreoninelysineserine (KTTKS). It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have to beconverted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. In reality, it's nowhere near that powerful, but it can smooth wrinkles to some extent by preventing facial muscles from contracting. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient. So, Algae Extract can be anything from La Mer's "Miracle Broth" to a simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one publishedin-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. These were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims. Contains the fragrant component limonene (77-86%) and makes things smell nice. Sometimes, it's also called collagen pentapeptide, as it's a subfragment of skin-structure-giving type I collagen.

Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. The good news is that in-vitro data shows that MAP does convert, but the bad news is we do not really know if the same is true on real, living human skin. Still, it is a skin goodie with nice moisturizing properties, so if you are after skin hydration, it is a good one to spot on the INCI list. Apretty famous and better-researched peptide consisting of five amino acids (the building blocks of all proteins). If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. The hard thing seems to be eating enough omega-3-s, more specificallyeating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, but that is a topic for a what-is-good-to-eat-site and not for us. You can read all about the pure form here. Voor optimaal resultaatdoeje eerst een double cleanse (2x achter elkaar reinigen), waarna je vervolgens het VITAL C - Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum aanbrengt. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. They contain the majority of the skin goodiesthat-similar to green tea- are mostly polyphenols (but not the same ones as in tea). The store will not work correctly in the case when cookies are disabled. Bij iedere 35,- die je besteedt krijg je een gratis Trial Size naar keuze. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. As f.c. Huidtype:Alle huidtypen.

A spray-dried or freeze-dried version of Aloe Leaf Juice. Maar ook de vettige (acne)huid is een goede match met dit serum. This all sounds great, however, in terms of comparative effectiveness, Imperata Cylindricacame up somewhat short in the study published in theJournal of cosmetic dermatology. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. Bel 023 711 45 33 of chat met ons! Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. Its the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics.

Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. It's a nice, basic oil that is often used duetoits greatsmoothing, softening and moisturizing properties. Saccharomyces cerevisiae (SC) is the fancy name for common bakers yeast. Its amino acid sequence isVal-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly that is also called the "spring fragment" and is repeated six times in the important skin protein, elastin molecule.

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