Metolius made it easy for you to replace the Monster Sling after a few seasons. We looked for signs of walking and stability when placing cams in various cracks of all different sizes. At 65 grams (2.3 ounces) for size 3 (orange), the Ultralight Master Cams are some of the lightest cams tested. The subtle design features of these cams are seemingly endless. Answers. 9.05 Beal Iceline Unicore Golden Dry 8.1mm x 60m (2 Pack), Add any of these products to your cart and trigger FREE shipping for your entire order (if your cart total is less than 70), Rock + Run Finger Tape 2.5CM X 13.7M - White (3 Pack) 7.95, Rock + Run Boars Hair Brush 3 Pack for 11.95. When you take these cams up, instead of the equivalent sizes of Camalots, you will have one more piece to place on the pitch. By the time you get into the finger size and below is negligible or hard to notice. 8 cam, its lopsided design and low-tension trigger made the unit especially prone to walking. And with a solid scientific background influencing our approach, these skills, together with our ability to work with and through people, translate into a broad range of capabilities within a wide array of applications. 
I had also read on the website that Metolius suggests replacing the cam slings every five years but it's not obvious how to do so (you can't just tie a new sling on it like you can with original Master Cams). 
Finally, they are not being sold as an expensive version of the original Master Cams and are instead replacing the original line at theoriginal price. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven. "And we'll tune up your cams and inspect them to make sure they're safe. Red dots indicate a placement that is too tipped out or open to be effective, yellow dots are in the middle and the green dots show the prime placement range for the cam. Gear You Ought to Know is a series that showcases underrated, under-appreciated, or just plain innovative gear in a discussion-based format. In exchange for this small sacrifice, the cams give you increased holding power, and thus are more likely to stay in the rock than competing cams with higher camming angles. Shown here is a No. One drawback is the lack of a thumb loop, which aid climbers may scoff at as it prevents the ability to clip in short when moving in aiders. This movement was more pronounced on the bigger cams and careful use of extended slings or quickdraws was key to keep the cam in good position. Scott Bennett approaching the crux on the Naked Edge (5.11b, 460'). Sorry, this product is out of stock. The cams quite literally feel like they bite into the rock. A full set of Master Cams from sizes 1-8 weighs in at 669g. Once I shoved a #00 (with a range of .34-.47") into a tight crack on the overgrown route Fastest Shark (5.11) in the ADK, and nearly fixed the piece. Up To 30% Off Backcountry MTB Apparel .css-1081t4c{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}Shop Now, Basecamp Under The Stars Shop Coolers, Camp Furniture & More. He continued: "For whatever the reason, the bigger cams have a greater angle coming into the trigger, and it's harder on the radius. The wide cam lobes create more surface contact with the rock. See a full technical comparison between the Metolius and Black Diamond Ultralight cams here. email: support@epictv.com, Company information: Banana Fingers T/A (trading as) EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United KingdomVAT GB930689110. They nowhave two new larger sizes to compliment your rack too! The colour coded slings help for easy location and are easily replaceable after a couple of seasons of use. 10 sizes: #00 - 8, sizes 7 and 8 are new and very light for their size, Colour-Coded 11 mm Monster sling, thumb piece and trigger, Range Finder system assists you in choosing the correct size cam, CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. Having ten cams in the set allow climbers to have a full run of cams to provide consistency on a rack and the weight of the Ultralights are some of the scantest out of cams tested. The cams offer an unprecedented level of solidity in placements. From identification to implementation, Play Projects is the ideal partner to plan, manage and/or execute your projects. Bill Dodd following P1 on Sunburst Arete, ADK (5.8, 200'). One thing that's stayed the same is that both generations of cams have Range Finder markings on the cam heads. The new Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are revolutionary in every way. All the latest deals, new releases, blog articles and more. The above factors caused the Ultralight Master Cams to score lower than many other cams for ergonomics. Home Gear Reviews Climbing Climbing Cams Metolius Ultralight Master Cam.
[Photo] Chris Van Leuven. Durability is good with solid cam lobe and stem construction and tough Kevlar trigger wires. Metolius gives you the usable range representing the range in which cams can be safely used, rather than the deceptive industry standard of reporting the absolute minimum and maximum expansion range which covers so overcammed that you will never get it back to completely tipped out. We thoroughly tested the Ultralight Master Cams in the field and during in-house testing for its stability and resistance to moving or walking after being placed and had mixed results. Advice. The Ultralight Master Cams are sleekly built units with a slender profile that fit well in narrow cracks. When I started climbing, I picked up the seemingly ubiquitous Camalots. We DO NOT offer in-store purchase, onlyClick & Collect. This sacrifices a small amount of range, though after comparing the numbers, we know that the range lost is mere millimeters on small placements. This system helps the cams take up less space on the rack. Placing the No. Another time the Kevlar trigger on the second-to-largest unit, a No. These cams went through a number of in-house tests for controlled and measurable metrics and were used by a number of climbers in the field with varying experience levels and interests. They're also very flexible, which helped me wiggle them into placements, and they were generally easy enough to clean.
Overall, the Ultralight Master Cams are a clear improvement over the previous generation: they're lower profile and noticeably lighter. No additional delivery or customs fees will be added by the courier. By continuing to browse this website, you are confirming your agreement. Sign up toour newsletterfor first refusal on all thebiggest and best deals as they come in. Door to door.
For a full rack of Ultralight Master Cams thats over 5 ounces in weight savings. But she had to rotate it in such a way that one of the cam springs snapped, rendering the piece useless until repaired (if that was even an option, I didn't know).
EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. Everyone climbs with them, so arent they obviously the best choice? Regarding other broken parts of the unit, such as damaged cam springs, "if it's fixable, we'll fix it," he said.
[Photo] Chris Van Leuven, "The hole hadn't been radiused (rounded)," he said from the company's headquarters in Bend, Oregon. They are less stable than the other double axle cams tested, particularly in the larger sizes, and their ease of use and ergonomics scored lower with testers due to the lack of a thumb loop and a small trigger bar.
The only piece of plastic on the entire cam protects metal trigger wires. The camming angle, the angle at which the lobes of the cam contact the rock, is slightly smaller than most other cams on the market, especially the Camalots which have a relatively large camming angle. The Range Finder dots and shark fin grooves are prominent features of the Master Cams. 7 cam was sharp, thus causing it to cut. "All our cams can be re-slung for a nominal fee," he said. With knowledge and practice across the varied spectrum of commerce, our entrepreneurial spirit, aptitude coupled with a deep commitment to results are what sets us apart. Finally, the slight loss in camming range holds another unforeseen benefit. Our robust yet cost-effective offerings are both tactile and experiential and support a myriad of corporate objectives. Backcountry Advocate ProgramBreaking Trail, Master-class camming device from Metolius for trad and alpinism, CNC-machined cam lobes are 40% lighter than the original Master, Range Finder assists with finding solid placements, Color-coded trigger, thumb, and webbing ease identification. If theres a piece of gear youd like to see featured,tell us. Small cam range What you see at the checkout is what you'll pay. After 15 to 20 minutes of work, my partner finally got it out.
Tim A broken trigger on the #7 Ultralight Master Cam. The thumb bar has essentially been completely redesigned to save weight. The trigger wires are made with Kevlar, thus avoiding the fate of metal cables used in most trigger wires which became frayed and broken with extensive use. Top to bottom: Red Ultralight Master Cam (75g), #13 Black Diamond Stopper (71g). EU fuss-free delivery! Once youve climbed with them, you wont want to go back. This tooth pattern is found on all but the smallest two cams and presumably helped the cam stay in place. New to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cam takes the weight off alpinists and trad climbers. When compared to a full rack of Ultralight Camalots (including a .3 Camalot, which is not available as an Ultralight), the Master Cams still emerge victorious, with a slight advantage of 24g.
Here is where many claim the Master Cams fall short. Looking at the cams side by side, I noticed other differences are noticeable: the swages are smaller on the new units, for example. The cam head on the Ultralight Master Cams is slightly wider than the Black Diamond X4s (left) and significantly narrower than the Black Diamond C4s (right). 7 unit. Just as the standards advanced then, they have advanced once more. To truly understand the weight savings of Master Cams, grab a large nut, ideally a #11 Wallnut or #13 Stopper. Additionally, Metolius used a new shark fin tooth pattern on the cam lobes to help the cam lobes find purchase in the rock and ideally increasing the holding power of the cam during a fall. Support.
In comparable placements the Ultralight Master Cams were more likely to move than its double axle competitors.
But the Ultralight Master Cams werent the least stable cam in our testing and particularly during in-house testing we were able to observe the freely moving stem of the cam that allowed the cam lobes to stay in place while the stem moved as rope was pulled through a carabiner attached to the sling. And, now that I'm aware of Metolius's repair policy, my broken units won't have to collect dust.
"Once we got two to three units back, we immediately looked at the issue and addressed the sharper radius." These cams are 40% lighter than most cams, and their lobes use stops for extra security in cracks. 50.95 Though the most important endorsement is not necessarily a public one. The Ultralight Master Cam also features updated lobes with a new grip pattern for a better bite in soft rock, as well as all the other features youd expect from a Metolius Cam, like the classic range finder, super-flexible stem and on-point craftsmanship. With ten sizes offered, climbers will benefit from significant weight savings when carrying a full rack of Ultralight Master Cams. This makes it easy to select the proper size despite the small loss in range. All of which combined to create a cam that held up despite extensive testing in the field and during in house testing. Hence, for the next few months, I ended up climbing with a near-full set. Through Press Play, companies have an opportunity to massage customers?? The Ultralight Master Cams are the cam of the future. So try the Metolius Master Cams, but be warned: your friends will always want to climb on your rack instead of theirs. Sandahl first addressed my concerns about the broken trigger on the No. Some people argue that Camalots have a greater range and its true, but theyre also a lot heavier. Metolius only recently started making the Ultralights in sizes 7 and 8, so perhaps that explains why those units didn't perform as well as the others regarding stability and trigger durability. The trigger bar is the narrowest trigger bar of the cams tested and proved more difficult than other cams to use. ). Ethically sourced Polish goose and duck down, combined with lightweight technical fabrics for exceptional warmth, weight and durability. Their feedback provided the information to best understand how each cam performed. According to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the original Master Cams. These cams have one more size in a full set than Camalots. Metolius has abandoned the use of these grooves and instead has created a shark fin pattern, specifically designed to help the cams hold in soft rock.
Hence, they can be a good option for climbers on both single and multi-pitch as well as more far flung adventures in the alpine where weight is key. Please provide your cell phone number for shipping purposes. He is not sponsored by Metolius; he uses the Ultralight Master Cams because he considers them the best tool for the job. Note: The small stereo hanging on Scott's harness likely weighs more than the rack of cams we brought on the route; so much for "light is right." Posted by Joel Ryan | Gear Feature, Journal, Trad. Sizes Available w/ Strength Rating, Range and Weight: 00 5 kN 8.5-12 mm (.34-.47) 45 grams (1.6 ounces), 0 5 kN 10-15 mm (.39-.59) 45 grams (1.6 ounces), 1 8 kN 12.5-18 mm (.49-.71) 52 grams (1.8 ounces), 2 10 kN 15.5-22.5 mm (.62-.89) 55 grams (1.9 ounces), 3 10 kN 18.5-26.5 mm (.74-1.04) 65 grams (2.3 ounces), 4 10 kN 23.5-33.5 mm (.93-1.32) 75 grams (2.6 ounces), 5 10 kN 28-39.5 mm (1.01-1.56) 85 grams (3 ounces), 6 10 kN 32.5-58 mm (1.28-1.89) 96 grams (3.3 ounces), 7 10 kN 40-57.5 mm (1.57-2.26) 112 grams (3.9 ounces), 8 10 kN 48.5-71.5mm (1.91-2.81) 129 grams (4.5 ounces).
The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam is an ultralight single stem camming device thats perfect for long trad routes and technical trad climbing. Schneiter is an AMGA-certified guide, founder of Glenwood Climbing Guides, and very quick on his draws.
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metolius ultralight master cam set
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