Homemade dust collector remote switch intended to enable the ground-level system to be started from an attic workshop. On about the tenth attempt the dust collector finally turned on. Do you just use regular 8-32 screws/nuts/washers/lock washers? So, with all that out of the way, lets get started. FYI, I am replacing the 30micron filter with a 1micron Shaker Felt Dust Collection Bag. And wouldnt that leave a bump on the back of the box? In this example, a 24-volt low-power wire runs from your thermostat to either your air conditioner or furnace. If you could identify the connection by the lables (L1, L2, L3 and T1, T2, T3) that would be very helpful indeed. I put the contactor in the junction box and marked where holes were needed (you can just see the black dots below).

I hung the remote on my bandsaw which is in the center of my shop. Constructed from an appliance-grade contactor, a 24-volt transformer, and 3- and 4-way switches.

But, do you want 240-volt, 50A power running to your thermostat? The system that I have designed is similar, but has a few changes that youll see as we progress.

I dont know what an electrician would say about that, but it has been working well for me. I only switched the two hot lines. Found a two pole, 120v coil contactor at Carolina Supply and the rest of the parts I needed at Home Depot and Lowes. So if I have it right, and for the benefit of those few who are as dull as me: the 240v line in is connected to T1 and T2 contacts at the bottom of the photo dust switch vacuum vac festool autoswitch toolmonger remote pharmacy tramadol Essentially, one electrical circuit is used to switch on/off another separate circuit. My first choice to accomplish this was to buy a commercially available wireless remote switch. I punched out three of the 1/2 knockouts (2 on one side and one on the other). Being able to turn on the dust collector and the air cleaner at the same time is convenient and thus actually encourages me to use it. I then tried to turn it off. These remote switches will easily handle low amperage loadsespecially onresistive circuits (i.e. I ordered one and when it arrived plugged in according to the directions.

Electricity is no joke.

I pressed the on button nothing.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. I hesitated to use the word bang as it is not firecracker loud, but it is definitely more than a click.

I was able to off-set some of this extra cost by shopping around for the other parts and getting a pretty good deal on them. If you would like to see all of my blog posts about installing my dust collection system, you can find them here: You description of the setup with the contactor is exactly what I need except that I cant quite make out how the contactor is wired. I dont see why you couldnt use it to turn on/off a higher amperage 120v circuit. I then drilled these at the drill press. The 120-volt line comes in the top cord grip and attaches to the contactor. Granted, I paid a lot more money for itthan others available on amazon, but I think this one should give me many years of use. I went to my local electrical supply specialists, Home Depot, a local plumbing supply place that also carries a lot of electrical stuff, and a local general store. Is that a problem? 14 AWG for the 120-volt line and 12 AWG for the 240-volt. Thanks for a great article. The other difference is the addition of the handy box with the 240-volt receptacle. Next I started to run some wiring. The two main components are a 110v wireless remote (Christmas light) switch and a contactor. I found that Grizzly had a newer model 240V Dust Collection Remote. Mydust collector has bee disassembled andmounted to a shelf on the wall. I contacted Grizzly and arranged to send the unit back. Mine has been working flawlessly for three years. I plugged the dust collector in and tested everything once more, and it works great.

Before I get started, I suppose I should give a little explanation of what this system is supposed to do. I did this over the course of a week while I was out running other errands. I tested the system before plugging in the dust collector to the new outlet. 1This page shows how I wired up my wood-shop dust collector to work with a wireless remote switch. The top screws on the contactor are the line out to the receptacle. If it is a simple on/off switch that you can leave in the on position, youre in business. Why not control the air-conditioner directly? But first a little background. Youre also right that I only used two of the three available poles on the contactor. Since this is in the middle of my shop, its never far out of reach. It was about $60 with tax and shipping, by far the cheapest commercial option, so I thought I would give it a try. I did not want to cut the plug off the dust collector cord. You are correct, by below, I meant at the base of the contactor, not the lower part of the photo. You touch this all the time, and if it shorts. DIY Dust Collector Remote Switch - comment on how to build a Dust Collector Remote Switch - 0 comments. However, remote switches that will handle 240-voltcurrent, at higher amperages, and on inductive loads (i.e.

The original poster, Dominic Greco from Two Guys In A Garage Toolworks, also wrote a great article on his website showing the steps he took to install this system. If youre not sure if this meets code for your area, check. Thanks Jonathan for the quick response and confirmation of my intended clarifications. I decided to build my own remote system after reading a thread on Woodnet.net. Heres the remote that I bought from Amazon: The contactor that I purchased from my local electrical supply specialist is heavy-duty. In fact, you will often see these sold as Christmas light remotes. I pressed again, and again, and again. Thanks for commenting and clarifying the wiring. You guessed it, nothing happened. I didnt know what a contactor was till I read your article.

Total Spent: $ 87.68 (plus the taxman).

With the collector in the garage I can have an outlet for my vacuum hose there but turn the collector on or off while in the garage even though the switch is in my basement. You can see his article here: Shop-Built Wireless Dust Collector Remote.

I just realized that the picture below doesnt show it very well, but it attaches down low where you cant see it, not to the top screws. When the thermostat senses that it needs to turn on the air-conditioning or heat, it sends a 24-volt signal to a contactor. I just wired the input and output for those lines together with a wire nut. Way more than I currently need, but unlikely to wear out, and it has plenty of capacityif I ever upgrade the dust collector. Click here for 27 plans for dust collectors, 40 Plans for Homemade Sanders: Disc, Drum, Spindle, and Thickness Sanders, Definition of kilogram, amp, and kelvin set to change forever, Roubo's Winding Sticks - 18th Century Design, Crane tips over while lifting bulldozer - GIF. If I am still wrong, please let me know so I dont mislead others. At the time I did this, a 240v remote switch capable of the amperage that my 2hp dust collector draws was either not easily available or too expensive.

I used cord grips (nylon grommets) where the wire went through the wall of the junction box. I would have loved to put my dust collector outside the shop, but with the way mine is setup, that just wasnt possible. Mine has switches for three circuits. I still need to tidy up the wires a little and Ill probably use cable ties to do so. Instead of asking for a replacement, I decided to build my own.

You said it perfectly and I dont disagree with a single thing you said. The 240-volt line comes in and attached to the bottom screws on the contactor.

If you buy a 24-volt controlled contactor, youre going to fry it.

A contactor is an electrically controlled switch. Or do you just account for that with your plywood backer? If so, do you put the head of the screw inside or outside? My remote switch is up and running, just waiting for my Jet DC650BK to arrive (switching to 230v). I went to a few stores locally to get the best prices on all the relevant parts. This means that a 120-volt and a 240-volt wall outlet are both needed in the area where the system in installed. I am building one of these similar to yours. Signup for our newsletter and get the 173 Best Homemade Tools eBook free! This turns on your heater or air-conditioner. light bulbs). Get 500+ tool plans, full site access, and more. So, in my case, Im going to use a cheap 110-volt wireless remote switch to send an electrical signal to an appropriate sized contactor. capacitor start motors) are harder to find and much more expensive. This means it can handle motors of up to 5 horse power.

When buying the remote switch you might consider getting one that has multiple device capabilities. A big thank you goes out to Dominic Greco for the inspiration to set my remote system up this way. Thanks for your comments. The 120-volt wireless remote switch needs to be placed in between the wall outlet and the 120-volt line in on the new junction box.

Drilling some mounting holes at the drill press.

I purchased the 120-volt remote from Amazon. Youre welcome, Im glad that you found the post helpful. The commercially available ones are limited in power or very expensive.

It is primarily used to allow a low power circuit to activate a much more powerful one. I think the low power remove paired to a contactor is a much better option.

I really appreciate you taking the time to comment here. On a single phase, 240 volt circuit, it will handle 30 amps of inductive load. Another advantage of this system is that because the remote control works through walls I was able to put my dust collector in the garage. Yes, I suppose that this could be done that way.

My system uses a low amperage 120v circuit to turn on/off a higher amperage 240v circuit. I took the wireless remote and hung it on a hook on my band saw. The cord from the dust collector plugs into the new 240-volt receptacle in the handy box. That said, the commercially available 120v remote switches are cheap enough that its probably a waste of time to do all this for a 120v tool.

I suppose that I could have used the third pole to switch the neutral line, but didnt think that made any sense. In my case they are labled A1 abd A2. I tried this several times, from various location in the shop, even with the remote 12-inches from the switch, and the situation never improved. the 240v line out is connected to L1 and L2 shown at the top of the photo. A little cheaper than store bought and a whole lot beefier. Even were this not the case, I would still like to add a wireless remote, as it will make the system much easier to use. If it has a magnetic switch, you are going to have to do some googling to see how you can bypass it. Im not an electrician. That is what your description states but I was not understanding what below meant. Connecting the junction box and the handy box. All I have in the shop is a cyclone.

Thanks again for the idea. When you activate the remote, your hear a significant SNAP as the contactor activates. The other thing is checking to see what kind of switch you already have on your dust collector.

The electrical parts that I purchased to build a remote control system for the dust collector.

T3 and L3 are not used as this is a three pole contactor but only two poles are being used for a single phase motor. I have a back ground in electonics and grasped your theory right away. Admittedly, doing so would have made things a little simpler, as I could have run the cord directly inside the junction box. So Im using only one side of the contactor I bought, and no tripped breakers. If this makes you nervous, dont do it. When I mounted my dust collector to the wall, I used a plywood backer to support the brackets. Learn how your comment data is processed. I did this 18 months ago, so just went back to review it. There are a few differences in my system from the one I linked to earlier.

I think I just figured out why I was confused. All of the grounds were linked together and a ground run to the box itself. Graham, Can this be altered to accommodate a 110v 1.5hp dust collector. I am in the process of wiring my dust collector system following your example. You may ask yourself, why all this hassle? Proceed at your peril! Mine has a much heavier duty contactor.

I agree completely. Last thing before we get started! This has decreased its footprint, but it has also made it somewhat difficult to get to the on/off switch. A good example of this would be the thermostat in your house. I also save precious space. You just made this post much better for anyone who comes along and reads it later. Your post was exactly what I needed to figure out how the contactor needed to be wired. When buying a contactor, make sure you get one that takes a 120-volt signal.

If I recall correctly, I just put a washer head wood screw through the contactor, through the housing box, and into the plywood behind. Better yet hire someone. This will turn on and off the much more powerful 240-volt circuit that goes to the dust collector. After about five attempts the collector finally turned off. I didnt go driving all around town just to get these parts. I connected the handy box to the junction box using an offset nipple and some locknuts. The cost of the three outlet set was still very cheap. Thanks!

Thank you. I have see where others actually constructed a shed outdoors for the collector. The 240-volt wall receptacle is above the shelf and the the 240-volt line in plugs in there. Another major advantage of having the collector placed in a remote location is that the noise in my shop to a whisper. When the wireless remote activates the 120-volt circuit, this fires off the contactor and starts the dust collector. Two other things to consider. 120-voltremote switches are a dime a dozen and can be found easily.

Im not encouraging you to do this, only showing you what I did. I attached the junction box to the plywood using washer-head screws. It obviously need to stay dry but cold temperatures is not an issue given that we can have very cold winters in Canada where I live. Dumb question but how do you mount the contactor to the box? I use the first with the contactor that drives the dust collector and the second for the air cleaner, which is 120v and does not need a contactor, and I use the third for whatever might be useful like a light. Graham. Im doing this with mine.

I was thinking that you were referring to the contacts at the bottom of the photo and that clearly is intended for the 240 volt line in. All in all, Im very happy with this project and Im convinced it is way better than a commercial 240-volt remote. A Woodworking and Hand Tool Restoration Blog, How to Set-up A Wireless Remote Control Switch For Your Wood Shop Dust Collector, How to Make Blast Gates for Your Woodworking Shop Dust Collection System, How To Make Brackets to Hang PVC Pipe for Woodworking Shop Dust Collection System, Shop-Built Wireless Dust Collector Remote, Electrical Junction Box $ 9.00, 1/2 Cord Grips (Nylon grommets) 2@ $1.92 $ 3.84, 14/3 wire 5 feet @ $0.63/ft $ 3.15, 12/3 wire 5 feet @ $0.97/ft $ 4.85, 120V 15A Plug $ 3.97, 250V 20A Plug $ 5.19, Handy Box $ 0.68, Handy Box Face Plate $ 0.68, 250V 20A Receptacle $ 4.97, Offset Nipple $ 2.05, Conduit LockNuts $ 0.78. The DC takes needs 20 amps and I cant find a remote for more than fifteen unless I buy the ready made and I have heard bad things about them. Instead, I added a handy box that will house a 250-volt receptacle. The 120v line appears to be connected to the lugs below the terminals shown at the top of the picture. the 120 \v line is connected to the lugs near the base of the contactor. I cant see in the pictures where the various wires are attached. Washer head screws used to install the junction box. This contactor then closes the switch on a much higher power 240-volt high amperage circuit.

Dont buy it Its crap!

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